Lawn Aeration and Overseeding Services in Fairhaven, MA

Lawn Aeration and Overseeding That Improves Soil

 

Lawns get compacted over time from foot traffic, mowing, and just existing. Compacted soil prevents grass roots from growing deep. Water runs off instead of soaking in. Fertilizer sits on the surface instead of reaching the roots. The result is thin grass that struggles no matter how much you water or fertilize.

 

We've been aerating and overseeding lawns in Fairhaven, Mattapoisett, Marion, New Bedford, and Dartmouth for 35 years. The best time is early fall, September through mid-October. Soil is still warm from summer, air temperatures cool down, and grass has time to establish before winter. 

 

Core aeration pulls plugs of soil out of your lawn, creating holes that let air, water, and nutrients reach roots. Overseeding right after puts grass seed in those holes where it makes good contact with the soil and germinates better than regular seeding.

 

Core Aeration Process

 

Core aeration uses a machine that pulls plugs of soil about 2 to 3 inches deep and half an inch in diameter. These cores get deposited on the lawn surface where they break down naturally over a few weeks.

 

The holes stay open even after surface plugs break down, creating channels for air, water, and nutrients to reach the root zone. This is what breaks up compaction and lets grass roots grow deeper.

 

We use commercial equipment that is strong enough to pull proper core depth. Rental machines homeowners use are too light and only scratch the surface, pulling half-inch cores instead of the 2 to 3 inches needed for real improvement.

 

The plugs on your lawn look messy for a couple weeks, but don't rake them up. They contain beneficial organisms and nutrients that work back into soil naturally. 

 

Overseeding spreads grass seed over existing lawn to fill thin areas and increase grass density. You're not starting from scratch, just reinforcing what's there.

 

This works best right after aeration because seeds fall into those fresh holes where they have direct soil contact, stay moist longer, and are protected from birds. Broadcast seeding without aeration means most seed lands on thatch or grass blades and never germinates.

 

Starter fertilizer goes down with the seed to provide nutrients the new grass needs for root development. This gives seedlings a strong start.

 

Dethatching

 

Dethatching removes the layer of dead grass stems and roots that build up between grass blades and soil. A thin layer is fine, but when thatch exceeds half an inch, it blocks water and fertilizer from reaching roots.

 

We dethatch with machines that use vertical blades to pull thatch up to the surface. This creates a mess of dead material that gets raked up and hauled away.

 

Dethatching is separate from aeration but often done in combination when thatch buildup is severe. Properties that have been maintained well but never aerated often develop heavy thatch that needs addressing before aeration and overseeding.

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Slice Seeding

 

Slice seeding uses a machine that cuts shallow grooves in soil and drops seed directly into those grooves in one pass. The seed-to-soil contact is excellent, similar to aeration but with more targeted seed placement.

 

This works well for lawns that are extremely thin or when you need more aggressive overseeding than regular broadcast seeding provides. The machine creates thousands of small slits that hold seed in place and keep it moist.

 

Slice seeding can be done instead of or in addition to core aeration, depending on lawn condition. Very thin lawns benefit from the aggressive approach slice seeding provides.

 

Best Time for Aeration and Overseeding

 

Early fall is best, typically September through mid-October around here. Soil temperatures are still in the 50 to 65 degree range from summer heat, while air temperatures cool to that perfect 60 to 75 degree range during the day.

 

This combination gives grass seed ideal germination conditions. Add in fall's natural rainfall, and you get consistent moisture without constant watering. New grass has 8 to 10 weeks to establish deep roots before going dormant for winter.

 

Spring aeration can work, but it creates problems. You have to choose between overseeding and applying crabgrass preventer since pre-emergent stops all seed from germinating. Weed pressure is intense in spring, and grass that germinates grows fast on top but develops shallow roots.

 

Summer seeding is not recommended. Heat stress kills seedlings, crabgrass outcompetes new grass, and watering demands become unrealistic. Don't try it unless you have no other option.

 

Why Lawns Need Aeration

 

Compacted soil from foot traffic, mowing equipment, and general use prevents grass roots from growing deep.

 

Poor drainage shows up as water pooling after rain or muddy areas that stay soggy. Compacted soil doesn't absorb water, so it runs off or sits on the surface.

 

Thatch buildup over half an inch blocks water and fertilizer from reaching roots. This develops in well-maintained lawns that have never been aerated or dethatched.

 

Thin grass despite regular care means the problem is below the surface. Fertilizing and watering won't fix compaction or thatch problems.

 

High-traffic areas from kids, dogs, or regular foot paths compact faster and need more frequent aeration than the rest of your lawn.

 

Post-Service Care

 

Keep seeded areas consistently moist for the first 2 to 3 weeks. Water lightly once or twice daily to keep the top inch of soil damp. Morning watering works best.

 

Once new grass emerges in 7 to 14 days, gradually shift to deeper, less frequent watering. This encourages roots to grow downward.

 

Stay off the lawn for 2 to 3 weeks if possible. Foot traffic disturbs seeds before they root.

 

Mow carefully when new grass reaches 3 to 4 inches. Use a sharp blade and only remove the top third. New seedlings haven't developed strong roots yet.

 

Let soil plugs break down naturally over 2 to 4 weeks. They look messy but contain beneficial organisms.

 

Wait 4 to 6 weeks before applying weed control. New grass is sensitive to herbicides.

 

Fall weather usually provides enough natural rainfall, but supplement with irrigation during dry spells.

 

Preparing for Aeration

 

Water your lawn 24 to 48 hours before if soil is dry. The aerator needs moist soil to pull proper cores, but not so wet it becomes muddy.

 

Mow shorter than usual a day or two before, around 2 inches if possible. Shorter grass lets the aerator make better soil contact and helps seed reach the surface.

 

Mark sprinkler heads, utility lines, or invisible dog fences with flags. The aerator is heavy and tines go deep.

 

Remove debris, sticks, and toys. A clean surface lets the aerator work properly.

 

Don't fertilize right before aeration. Apply fertilizer after so nutrients move down into the holes.

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Common Problems Aeration Fixes

 

Hard soil you can't push a screwdriver into indicates severe compaction. Aeration breaks this up so roots can penetrate.

 

Water runoff instead of absorption means compacted soil won't let water infiltrate. Aeration creates channels for water to soak in.

 

Grass thinning over time happens when soil compaction prevents grass from spreading. Aeration combined with overseeding fills these areas.

 

Fertilizer that doesn't seem to work is usually sitting on the surface. Aeration lets nutrients move down to the roots.

 

Getting Started with Lawn Aeration and Overseeding

 

Properties throughout Fairhaven, Mattapoisett, Marion, New Bedford, and Dartmouth need aeration and overseeding to fix compacted soil and thin grass. Early fall is best, September through mid-October, when conditions support strong establishment before winter.

 

Call 508-763-8000 or email request@newenglandtreeandlandscape.com for a free estimate.

 

35 years in business. Local crew based at 232 Huttleston Avenue in Fairhaven. Family-owned.