Plant Relocation Made Easy: Your New England Transplanting Manual

By Jorge Melo

Introduction

In New England, where seasons change fast and your yard is your sanctuary, knowing how to move plants without ruining them is a superpower. Whether you’re dodging roadwork, redesigning your landscape, or saving that perfect perennial from drowning in shade, transplanting plants doesn’t have to be stressful.

But let’s be real—done wrong, it can be a disaster. Wilting leaves, dead blooms, and roots that never recover. Luckily, with the right prep, timing, and care, you can give your plants a smooth transition and keep them thriving.

This guide breaks down everything you need to know—step-by-step—from planning and digging to recovery and watering.

Let’s dig in.

Transplanting Flowers With Finesse: An Expert Guide For A Successful Move

When Should I Transplant My Flowers?

Transplant perennials or shrubs when they’re dormant—ideally in early spring or fall. If you must move them mid-season, expect more stress and prep accordingly.

Reasons to transplant:

• Outgrowing current space

• Light conditions have changed

• Garden redesign

• Poor original placement

• Moving homes

What Season Is Best for Transplanting?

The best time to transplant most plants in New England is early spring or fall.

• Spring: Ideal for trees and shrubs that start growth early in the season. Cool temperatures and moist soil help roots settle in before summer heat.

• Fall: Great for perennials and deciduous trees. The plant can focus on root growth after shedding leaves. Avoid transplanting too late—roots need time to establish before the ground freezes.

• Summer: Only transplant if absolutely necessary. Heat and sun increase stress and the risk of transplant shock.

• Winter: Not recommended unless you're dealing with dormant, bare-root stock and the ground isn’t frozen.

Timing your transplant to match the plant’s natural cycle is one of the biggest factors for success.

Can I Transplant Flowers While They're Blooming?

Avoid it if possible. Blooming plants are using energy to flower, not grow roots. If it’s an emergency move:

• Snip the blooms to refocus energy

• Use root stimulator when replanting

• Keep soil moist (but not soggy)

How To Safely Transplant Flowers in Your New England Garden

Mind the Weather

Transplant on cloudy, cool days. Avoid hot sun or windy conditions which increase water loss and stress.

Wet the Soil

Water your plants the day before and moisten the new hole. Hydrated roots are less likely to go into shock.

Dig Deep

Preserve as much of the root ball as possible. Start digging 6–10 inches away from the base, and at least 12 inches deep for established perennials or bulbs.

Let it Soak In

Use rich planting soil and backfill gently. Water deeply once after planting, then avoid watering again until the top 2 inches of soil dry out.

Emergency Summer Transplanting

Sometimes, you have no choice—construction, weather, or damage might force a summer transplant. Here's what to do:

• Dig up the entire root ball

• Prepare a muddy new hole (water + loose soil)

• Replant and tamp gently

• Do not overwater. Wait until the soil dries out 2 inches down

• Remove blooms, but keep leaves attached

Helping Trees Recover from Transplant Shock

Tree Transplant Shock Recovery

Trees can lose up to 95% of their roots when transplanted. Shock symptoms can last up to 1–2 years, sometimes even 5. Patience and proper care are essential.

Leaves Dropping After Transplant and Other Signs of Shock

• Yellow or brown leaves

• Leaf scorch

• Early fall coloring

• Bare branches or slow budding

• Twig dieback

Is my tree in shock or dead?

Scratch a twig. Green and moist underneath = alive. Brown and brittle = dead.

How to Save a “Dying” Transplanted Tree

• Water weekly: ~1 inch

• Apply 2–4 inches of mulch, but keep it away from the trunk

• Replant if hole was too shallow or narrow

• Use root stimulator products to aid recovery

How long does it take a tree to recover from transplant shock?

• Most recover in 1–2 years

• Some can take up to 5

How to Save a Plant After Root Damage or Transplant Shock

If your plant is showing signs of root trauma or shock—wilting, yellowing, or slowed growth—here’s how to help it recover:

• Trim back some foliage: This helps balance the loss of roots by reducing the demand for water and nutrients.

• Avoid overwatering: Only water when the top 1–2 inches of soil are dry. Overwatering can suffocate damaged roots.

• Use root stimulators: Products with mycorrhizae or natural hormones can encourage new root growth.

• Provide light, not stress: Keep plants in partial shade while they recover. Avoid harsh afternoon sun.

• Skip the fertilizer: Don’t apply fertilizer until new growth appears. Fertilizers can burn stressed roots.

• Mulch: Add a 2–3 inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and insulate the roots, but keep it a few inches away from the base of the plant.

• Be patient: Root recovery takes time. Monitor the plant over the next several weeks and resist the urge to intervene too often.

Planting and Transplanting Trees and Shrubs

Quick Facts

• Match plant to site conditions (sun, soil, water)

• Choose correct planting method based on tree/shrub stock

• After-care is just as important as planting

Planning the Site

Soil texture and drainage

• Avoid compacted or poorly draining soils

• Improve with compost and testing

Soil pH

• Test pH and adjust for specific plant needs

After-Planting Care

Watering and Fertilization

• Water at the root zone, not leaves

• Only fertilize after roots are established

Sunscald and Winter Damage

• Use tree wraps or burlap for young trees

• Avoid planting too close to salt-treated roads

Animal Damage

• Use fencing or tree guards to protect young bark from rabbits and deer

FAQ About Transplant Care

Can you transplant plants in summer?

Yes, but only if absolutely necessary. Water before and after, and avoid hot, sunny days.

What does transplant shock look like?

Leaf scorch, dropped leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and slow bud development.

What plants can’t be transplanted?

Taprooted plants (like poppies) and certain woody shrubs are harder to move once mature.

How often should I water transplanted plants?

Once deeply after planting, then only when top 2 inches of soil are dry.

Should I transplant in spring or fall?

Both work well. Fall is ideal for most perennials; spring for early-growing trees and shrubs.

How long for plants to recover after transplanting?

• Flowers: A few weeks

• Shrubs: 1 season

• Trees: 1–5 years depending on species and size

When should I call a professional?

• Large or mature tree

• Poor access or rocky soil

• Need for machinery (tree spade, stump grinder)

How to prepare soil for transplanting?

Loosen compacted areas, mix in compost, and test drainage. A healthy soil base makes the biggest difference.

Need help relocating plants or trees in your New England landscape?

Contact New England Tree & Landscape for expert transplant services.

Email us: request@newenglandtreeandlandscape.com or visit newenglandtreeandlandscape.com

Citations

Davey Tree Expert Company. “Helping Trees Recover from Transplant Shock.” The Davey Blog, 3 May 2022, https://blog.davey.com/helping-trees-recover-from-transplant-shock/.

University of Minnesota Extension. “Planting and Transplanting Trees and Shrubs.” Extension.umn.edu, Regents of the University of Minnesota, 2021, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/planting-and-transplanting-trees-and-shrubs.

Wallace’s Garden Center. “Transplanting Flowers With Finesse: An Expert Guide For A Successful Move.” WallaceGardenCenter.com, 27 June 2023, https://wallacesgardencenter.com/blogs/gardening/transplanting-flowers-a-guide-for-a-successful-move.